Two days at Butte Lake now; three weeks ago, when I started my trip I mentioned signs that eras were closing, and here they are again. The first: Spontaneous camping trips to long favored locales will require planning, contradictory as that obviously is. Most of the former First Come-First Served campsites have been converted to the reservation system; my good fortune is that my favorite site here is not one of them and I was able to move right in. But the number of such sites has shrunk so that care will need to be taken as to time of day and day of week to arrive as time goes on. I realize that a bit of research would show me areas of...

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