*13 August: I am in Ilulissat on the west coast of Greenland at roughly 69° latitude, separated from Canada by Baffin Bay. About 60,000 people live in the country, the largest island on the planet, mostly covered with ice rather than humanity. Ilulissat Icefjord, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the reasons I am here, the other being my interest in sailing by ferry down the coast for several days, gaining acquaintance, I hope, with the near endless fjords of this region. The town’s name means iceberg in the native language—appropriately since the glacier at the head of the Icefjord feeds a constant stream of bergs into the fjord and...

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