1 October: Arrived by train in Helsinki yesterday evening. The terrain between Rovaniemi and Helsinki didn’t change noticeably from what I’d seen before. As I’ve learned both visually and by talking to Finns, this is not a mountainous country; I think someone said the highest peak is only a little over a thousand meters, and most of the rest is rolling hill and valley without significant relief. Still, the fall colors were very nice and my seatmate on the train showed me pictures on her laptop from a recent hike in a national park; even without mountains or even many trees, the color, the low-growing foliage I so much admire, and the...

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